The really nice thing about starting your own composting operation is that you can choose to start small and slowly, or you can dive right in and start larger heap. (See below for ideal home garden size.) Just about any vegetation you put on the ground is going to rot whether it's a few leaves or a fat tree stump. And rotting is what composting is all about, but a tree stump is going to take a lot longer! And when you think of "rotting", substitute the word "cooking" or "heating" because that's what is really happening in your compost pile.
So, first decide on the spot you're going to use. Keep in mind, though, a smaller pile will "cook" down into compost much more slowly. Also, you do not want a spot that pools rain water which can lead to a stinky swampy area. And finally, a shaded spot with just some sun will work well to keep solar heating from drying out the heap. You want heat, but moist internal heat, not drying heat. Balance, like so many other things in your garden, is the key to where you put the pile.
If the place you choose for your compost pile already has grass, weeds, or other growth, you may want to mow or chop the growth down and lay down newspaper over the spot to a depth of four or five sheets. A layer of cardboard (with no ink on it) will also work. This will kill off weed seeds and other unwanted material that might try to pop up before you have good even depth in your heap. If the spot is basically barren, no newspaper will be necessary.
So what's the best size for your compost pile? Our heap is approximately 2.5 feet wide, 4 feet long, and 3 feet high. Five years ago, when we decided to create a compost pile, we placed it where it just seemed to be "right". It's at the end of a flower bed, that, due to our lilac bush and a neighbor's oak tree, is fairly well shaded. The area is not well suited for growing flowers or vegetables. There's a fence behind it and a concrete block wall at the one side. It's out of the way, well shaded, and well drained, but within a very convenient 30 feet of my kitchen door. It was all guesswork on my part, but it pretty much meets all the needs for the pile. I later read that a simple home garden compost pile would be approximately 3 feet wide, 3 feet long and 3 feet deep. At this size, the central core naturally heats up very nicely which speeds up the entire process.
After we chose the spot, we used old galvanized pipe to serve as posts. I bought a small roll of 3 foot wide plastic construction fencing or "fabric". The material is "woven" to allow light and air through it. The fencing is pliable and was easy to attach to the metal posts using plastic coated wire "twist-ties". The "ties" are important. If you use wood posts and nails or staples to secure the fencing, you will be limiting your ability to "turn" your heap. Turning is an important action you must take regularly to insure your pile is maturing evenly. The twist ties allow you to easily move a length of your fencing out of the way allowing you to churn the pile. The alternative would be a hinged gate of some type.
Your compost heap is easy to construct, practically maintenance free, and a GREAT source of balanced organic material to improve your garden at no cost. Plus, it's a wonderful way to recycle, rather than tossing useful material into the waste stream. So, get outside soon and start scouting out the best spot for your "garden gold mine"!
One final note: Some localities have placement (setbacks) restrictions on compost heaps. Check yours if you think that may be the case.
Next time: What To Put In Your Compost Pile...And What Not Put To In It!
No comments:
Post a Comment